Every day here requires some flexibility. I had forgotten that this would be a “two day” holiday here in Vietnam. Last night, the city was alive and junping with holiday fervor. There were thousands of young teens all about. On some corners, you saw rock bands performing to enthusiastic audiences…sort of their version of Oriental heavy metal. Sorry, not my choice, but I couldn’t find any “oldies” or “folk groups.” It was strange to be in the midst of a celebration of “Liberation Day” knowing I’m what they were liberated from.
Until you look at their faces. To the citizens in DaNang out in strength last night, this is their 4th of July. Absent, noticeably, were the faces of my age and older. When I did see them, they were subdued. To them, like me, it’s a day filled with memories. Thoughts filled with longings and sighs of resignation.
This day is a continuem of their celebration. This is May Day, a moment to celebrate the workers and the values of their achievements. This is a day for most of the population, the workers, and China Beach is full of families. This is a world-wide holiday, except in the U.S. It’s not celebrated at home due to the lasting odors of Senator Joe McCarthy and his gang of miscreants. That prompts me to speak about one of my “why’s” of April 30th. If it hadn’t been for the “stink of pink” after WWII, my life and the lives of so many others would have followed different paths.
During the war, while Japan invaded China and bombed Pearl Harbor, IndoChina and the Phillipines were next. The allies were fighting to hold India and Burma, but were losing ground. We desparately needed pressure put on the Japanese in IndoChina to allow for the Marines to begin the long road back, first in the Solomons and then for MacCarthur to return to Manila. So the OSS made contact with Ho Chi Minh in Vietnam and made an agreement. We would send arms and supplies to the Viet Minh for them to fight against the Japanese in IndoChinca. In return, we would support Vietnam’s Independence after the war and not support the return of the Colonial French. They did and we didn’t. Hence, Dien Bien Phu and April 30, 1975 and the Gulf of Tonkin Resolution and March 5, 1965.
But you know, as soon as a Marine, Sailor, Soldier or Airman stepped on Vietnam’s ground or sailed her waterways, politics had no scent. From the first moment, the Brotherhood of the Paddies ruled and rolled over the other “reals.” The rally cry was, “I got your back, bro!” and “It don’t mean nothing!” I miss that kind of “tight.”
I have found today that it will be easier to get to Hill 55 from Hoi An, so that’s what I’ll do. For the rest of the day, I’ll sit along the river and next to the port and watch the people and the country. Tonight, I’ll go to Mass at the old Cathedral and swim in China Beach tomorrow.
S’lan,
Tom